Monday, July 30, 2007

All together now – Intimacy at the traffic lights
I’ve always thought there’s a funny intimacy to the traffic in Hanoi, and I suppose Ho Chi Minh City can’t be too different. Such the volume of motorbikes when you pull up to the traffic lights (all the rage these days), everyone is huddled together en masse, waiting, in most cases impatiently, for the lights to change. And there we all are, together, for more than a moment, less than a minute. The smell of shampooed hairdos, the whiff of a high-noon bia hoi session, a fragrantly scented businessman, or businesswoman – all these scents mingle with the fumes. You glance around. You may or may not see a hip 15-year old on his father’s bike with two friends on the pillion, a gaggle of giggly girls on bicycles, a bunch of sun-kissed labourers, young glamorous couples on fancy-pants motorbikes, delivery boys encased on their own bike by eight crates of beer, a young woman holding her bicycle loaded with Bat Trang pottery upright, as well as the off-to-works, the won’t-works and usually at least one old bespectacled man with a pith helmet who judging by his incessant beeps doesn’t quite get the concept of red lights.
At traffic lights over the years, people have reached out and shook my hand, pulled the hair on my arms, deconstructed my wardrobe, tried to sell me a loaf of bread, informed me my kickstand was down; men have grinned, chic women have played coy, children have stared, smiled, laughed and wailed at me.
While waiting for red to go green, if you’re wondering what time it is, there’s plenty of folk around to ask, you can also practice your listening skills by eavesdropping on conversations around you, or if you’re feeling chipper, why not try to get a bit of impromptu banter going on yourself? Just friends you haven’t met, right? Other bonuses of static traffic are asking for directions, blowing kisses at ravishing strangers and bumping into old friends, on the minus side, there’s all that passive smoking, which reminds me I must get around to inventing the ashtray for motorbikes, which will make me a dong-millionaire one day.
Of course, no one wants to linger, you may have broken the ice and the prospect of a friendship may have flickered in your heart, but inevitably the traffic lights go green, the body of traffic lurches forward, horns blare at the stragglers, ‘di di’, forwards, onwards, away, if you don’t drive fast enough 70 metres down the road you’ll miss the green lights, then a man will pull up beside you, reach out and pull the hair on your arm. He won’t speak, but he will smile, and his eyes will say, “Remember me?”
Well, Iraq did it... they won the ASIAN cup

Reaction on the streets from the Guardian

"In 90 minutes, 11 men on a soccer pitch thousands of miles away have made millions of Iraqis happy while 250 MPs, our government, the mullahs, imams and warlords can't provide us with a single smile. I hope this is a turning point for our country," said one fan.

Great stuff. The team comprising Kurds, Sunnis, Shias and Turkomans have overcome kidnap threats, the murder of loved ones, and disruptions to their training schedules and had to train in Syria and Jordan pre-tournament.

Hats off lads.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Hanoi oi
This fellow was just getting warmed up on tourism in Hanoi, I thought, then the article just ended.

Oh well. Iraq vs Saudi tonight. The world will be at least following the score, if not watching. So the Asian Cup got it's "coming out" coverage in the end. Sadly not for the football.

Friday, July 27, 2007

A story circulated rapidly around Hanoi yesterday that the Saudi Arabian football team, who were here for the Asian Cup semi final, had caused a bit of a brouhaha in the Sheraton Hotel after walking in en masse to the ladies changing rooms, in the gym or sauna area I presume. A long silent stand off apparently ensued with the exception of one American lady, who screamed herself lobster red, until "Je suis le Concierge" led the naughty boys away to the gents' facilities.

Of course, here at Pittstop Works, we never start rumours, we just spread them.
From Mrs. Pittstop, this vid is pretty buon cuoi. Probably doing the rounds, it's "around 1,000 inmates from a prison in Cebu, Philippines performing the music video Thriller của Whacko Jacko himself.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Iraqi-Saudi final: The country formerly known as Iraq are into the final of the Asian Cup where they'll be taking on the Saudis, who won a cracker against Japan, 3-2, played at My Dinh stadium in Hanoi.


Let's get metaphysical:
Speaking of Iraq, it "isn't Vietnam" but is Vietnam the new Spain?

Glad that's finally been sorted out but can the comparisons end now please? You're killing our google searches.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Completely forgot to post this last week, Vietnam are now out of the cup, the mood is gone, life goes on, and now the closing punchline doesn't really hold true, but still, anyway, here's Teddy's pitch side version of the Vietnam-Japan game last week.


The invincibles
We arrive early for the game at My Dinh Stadium and decide to join a few merry men at a nearby bia hoi. With the temperature in the mid-30s it’s thirsty work just sitting here knocking back beers.

Most of our crew is dressed in Vietnam-jerseys so we’re instantly inducted into the circle of trust, where it’s customary to clink glasses every twenty seconds and take turns shouting Viet Nam Vo Dich (Vietnam’s invincible). We slug down more beers with water chasers until it’s time to slip away with the crowd which is heading en masse towards the stadium.

There’s an intoxicating buzz in the air. The Red and Gold-clad army of Vietnam fans are pumped up. We shuffle through the gates and run for the stands. The whistle blows as I try to find my seat. A fairly laissez faire approach has been taken to where people actually sit. As it happens my seat hasn’t been taken.

I settle down then seemingly seconds later I’m standing, then jumping, then embracing Tuan Anh – though I don’t find out his name until a few minutes later – the spectator beside me. Vietnam has scored, or rather Japan has, but rather obligingly into their own net. The stadium goes bananas. The crowd is hungry for more, the team surges forward but the Japanese team soaks up the pressure. These players are seasoned pros. Big league players who’ve graced the World Cup. They don’t panic that they’re one down. They spread it around at the back. Sizing up their opponents, probing for spaces until eventually as cool as you like a fluid move from one side of the pitch to the other then back again sees Japan equalise. The crowd’s defiant cheers dissipate.

As the half goes on Japan’s dominance grows. A well taken free kick puts them in front. By half time the Vietnamese team has completely lost its mojo. The crowd, too. Tuan Anh slumps in his chair at the break and phones his father, who tells him more heartbreaking news. In the other game in Vietnam’s Group, Qatar is winning one nil against UAE. This means Vietnam, as it stands, is out of the tournament. The score comes up on the electronic board and 40,000 people cry in collective despair.

Now Vietnam has to come back. So when the team returns the crowd is back on its feet and everyone is screaming their heads off.

The Vietnamese start well but once again the Japanese side seems that bit cooler on the ball. A slick sequence of passes by Japan sees play move from one end to the other and the ball is curled into the top corner of the net. Not long afterwards, a fourth goal is scored by the Japanese team and it’s sayonara to the hosts. The Vietnamese now face immediate elimination. The team is now floundering. The fans moan about players’ lack of movement. A woman asks aloud is it going to rain as the clouds go dark and ominous. An early exit is on the cards. Her husband pulls long and hard on his cigarette and says nothing.

Then just when it seems all is lost a sudden shout from one section of the crowd sparks interest from everyone. Mobile phones are whipped out in unison. Frantic calls are made. Another section of the crowd roars. Then someone near us shouts out, “UAE have equalised!”

Everyone is embracing again. It’s not as good as a three goal comeback followed by an outrageous injury time winner would have been but it’ll do nicely. Somewhere on the pitch star striker Le Cong Vinh chases down a ball but no one is watching. The network’s jammed with nervous fans calling for constant updates. Japan comes close to adding a fifth. Vietnam’s manager Riedl throws on a few subs for tired legs but perhaps also with a potential quarter final in mind.

Again another section of the crowd bursts into rapture. Someone near us shouts out UAE is winning 2-1 and howls of delight ring out all around us. An Englishman dressed in Vietnam colours leads a chant of “U - A - E! U - A - E!” and thousands join in. Someone, somewhere is even playing a trumpet. A fiesta has begun.

A couple of minutes later Tuan Anh gets through to his father who says UAE didn’t score again. It’s still 1-1. Vietnam’s fate is still in the balance. Tuan Anh informs everyone around him and a hundred eyes screw through him. He sits down out of view. Don’t shoot the messenger.

An eternity passes over the next 10 minutes, the forgotten game in front of our eyes in Vietnam’s national stadium finally ends, the winning team gathers in the corner and bows before the applause of their fans.

But no one from Vietnam is going home quite yet. Thousands remain seated waiting for the final whistle from Ho Chi Minh City. Dark clouds rumble over head. Eventually the Vietnam players on the far side jump up in the air. The cries of “U - A - E!” start up again. No one knows what UAE stands for, no one cares, tonight they are the toast of Vietnam. A sea of screaming fans floods out to begin the celebrations on the streets of the capital. Outclassed on the pitch but still proudly in the tournament – I should have known, Vietnam’s invincible.


By Teddy de Burca Jnr

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

Japanese are bored and restless says Andrew Mitchell in Hanoi...

"I think it was Rolling Stones drummer Charlie Watts who said that touring was 5 percent rock 'n' roll and 95 percent waiting around. Team Japan can certainly sympathize after three weeks on the road in Vietnam.

Life is so dull for the players at their hideaway at the Sheraton Hotel that bath salts have become the be-all and end-all of entertainment for the team, according to ace midfielder Shunsuke Nakamura."


Meanwhile the poor reporter who wrote the article discovered the joys of the taxi du (parachute taxi). Not sure why its called taxi du, but it means a taxi with a dodgy meter.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

HOLY MOLEY - IT'S A WORLD EXCLUSIVE FOR PITTSTOP WORKS
Pittstop Work's associate Mrs. Loan Symons ran into the Australian international, misser and also creator of crucial penalties, Lucas Neil at the Nutz Bar in the Sheraton Hotel where the "shockeroos" were staying and no doubt drowning their sorrows, tears in everyone's beers, after being dumped out of the Asian Cup by the Japanese.



















And here a Pittstop World Exclusive is the word for word transcription of that historic meeting where Lucas discovered the joys of Vietnamese tact on touchy subjects.

Loan: Hello
Lucas: G'day
Loan: Were you one of the people who missed a penalty?
Lucas: Yes
Loan: Are you the famous one, or the other one
Lucas: I'm the other one
Loan: Oh, so where's the famous one?
Lucas: I think Harry's upset, he's staying in.
Loan: So your team is like Vietnam. You are losers.
Lucas: (Inaudible grunt)
Loan: Can you smile for the camera?
Lucas: Sure (smiles, evidence above)
Loan: Thanks...why aren't you dancing?


Good man yourself Lucas for being game for a laugh. Cheers to Johnny for the pic and dialogue. Plus check out the doctor's photos of the Asian Cup games in Hanoi.
Size does matter boys
Well, Vietnam are out. A two goal loss to Iraq. A game they never came close to winning, though they certainly weren't taken apart, it was incredibly frustrating to watch how they played - i.e. aimlessly. Fair play mind, the Iraqis showed a fine deft touch and both goals were excellent. It's a story in the making. Now they face the Saudis or the might of Uzbekistan in the semis (not bad as they avoid the big guns, Korea and Japan). Hope they go all the way. Inshallah.

The coach Riedl says Vietnam's diminutive players just can't compete against the big boys of football: "The problem we have is we are just too small," he said, in this Reuters story). "Playing in Southeast Asia we can be successful, but we struggle in the rest of Asia because we are too small and this is a big problem.

But he always says this/ that.

Anyhoo, this ends Pittstop Works' tireless coverage of the event - till the next Asian Cup my friends! Viet Nam vo dich!

Saturday, July 21, 2007

'Arry on football
Well - there you have it. The Aussies down to ten men against Japan, somehow hold on for penalties then blow it immediately with Harry "history will ultimately deem me a failure" Kewell missing despite wearing white shoes and walking to the penalty spot while doing keepie-uppies.

Time to head to the Sheraton hotel and set up the honey trap for Harry & Co. as they drown their sorrows with pints of Tiger.

Mrs. Pittstop is lost to another Harry - that infernal boy-wizard. Book was available as of 8am here in sync with the world.

Vietnam now on (and immediately losing) against the country formerly known as Iraq.
VINA-LAS VEGAS
Do people from this part of the world have a natural knack for cards?

Story on a Canuck-Vietnamese fella finishing second at the World Poker championships...
"He left Vietnam penniless, but poker made him a millionaire..." Rags to riches I tell you what.

... but funnily enough he was pipped to the post by Jerry Yang, a 39-year-old US psychologist who grew up in Laos of all places.

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Bad day for a White Wedding

The other day at My Dinh stadium for the Vietnam vs Japan game, I overheard someone say "Tai Em (he's a midfielder for Vietnam) chan roi vi sap lay vo" (he's fed up because he's getting married soon). He was playing shite and I thought the fan was blaming the prospect of marriage for getting the player so down.

Turns out he made a bit of a boo-boo on his wedding dates: "Vietnam's Phan Van Tai Em is in coach Alfred Riedl's bad books after arranging his wedding party for the same day as their Asian Cup quarter-final against Iraq." Oh dear.
Read more here.

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Minsk FC's player profiles
Didn't realise this was up on the Highway4 site.

Good pic of Lieutenant Wharf tackling someone about a third his size here (at the Thac Da rally) as well.
Vietnam slink into the quarters
Well, if you don't know Vietnam got walloped 4-1 by Japan but still went through as UAE decided to finally turn up (despite already being eliminated) and beat QATAR 2-1 in the other game in Vietnam's group.

The celebrations were uproarious but rather bizarre. Hammered but through to the quarter finals. Outclassed but still standing. Whowouda thunk it? Even better as Australia struggled in their group, Vietnam now avoid them and now head to Bangkok to play Iraq - who knows what to expect in that one. Japan ironically get Australia who are starting to play a bit of ball after thumping the Thais 4-0 (though that score is very flattering). Also tuyet voi, Australia come here to play Japan in what could have been the final. No doubt if the Aussies get knocked out we could also see the great mercurial talents of Harry Kewell and Mark Viduka hitting the tiles on Saturday night.

The Iraqis' tournament is a story in itself (they beat Australia 3-1). Basically a team of exiles, I hear, forced to train away from their homeland for obvious reasons. I have to support the Nam, but it would a bit of a fairytale if old Iraq made the final.

Anyway, Vietnam fans will be heading over to Bangkok ready to party for the weekend. A semi final place up for grabs. The UAE is currently the most popular country in the world around these parts. No one knows what it stands for, no one cares.

Sunday, July 15, 2007

The Asian Cup rolls on, it's hot as bejesus, and the hacks are understandably thirsty but this fella from the Japan Times is a bit peeved that the Fun Police were against late night cavorting - can't say I noticed a clamp down. He ends up in "Bobby's" and doesn't sing its praises. (Friend of yours Elliott-o? If so, I heard he was Dan Dockery-ed).

More importantly it's Vietnam and Japan tomorrow and I'm lined up with a ticket. Can't wait.

The Nam and Japan are level on four points. A draw or even a loss might be enough for Vietnam to progress, if QATAR on two points, manage no more than a draw with UAE.

Also, Timeout's travel story last week: Gemma price heads off to Anlong Veng, where controversial historical sites are now appearing on an official tourist trail.

Saturday, July 14, 2007

Reuters' guide to 48 hours in Hanoi

You'll never guess where this Reuters' guide recommends or what sites to check out. No, actually you will guess, so before reading, why not see if you can...

48 hours starting at 6pm on Friday, so you have two dinners, two lunches, oddly only one breakfast and "free time" activities in between to think about.


Then read the guide
to see how many you got right

The piece is put together by staff who work here, but you could fault them for not trying very hard.

A better piece and the most emailed article of last week on the "quiet sexual revolution" in Vietnam by Reuters here.

Sunday, July 01, 2007

Links/h'ors d'oeuvres...
1 - "The Cu Chi Tunnel complex is one of Asia's stranger holiday fantasies, with its firing range of Vietnam War weaponry, displays of booby-trap bamboo spikes, tunnels to crawl through and dioramas of waxwork GIs setting fire to villages."

"Even the smiling waitresses wear black Viet Cong-style pyjamas as they try to sell you bottles of rice wine containing a dead cobra, a suitably macho tipple for visitors who have unleashed their inner warriors with a rented AK-47." Read more.


But why do people always insist on comparing TPHCM or Hanoi ... to Paris?
"The boulevards and expensive restaurants are once more redolent of Paris, and Saigon - as everybody except northerners call it - is once again a stylish and confident place with Vietnamese energy and more than a touch of Gallic sophistication."

Eh? I thought Dalat was the 'petite' Paris, or was it Ha Dong I was thinking of?

2 - 'President Nguyen Cao Ky, fearing him as a rival, mustered the support of most of the other South Vietnamese generals and fired Gen. Thi on March 10, 1966. Ky said Gen. Thi was leaving the country for medical treatment of his nasal passages.

"The only sinus condition I have is from the stink of corruption," Gen. Thi reportedly responded.'


Good line. Wee profile on him here as he passed last week.
Gia roi...
"The Guinness Book’s recent recognition of a 111-year-old Japanese man as the world’s oldest living person may be confounded following the discovery of a Vietnamese man apparently aged 113."
Read on.